What are the different ethnic hair types?

Ethnic hair types are classified from 1 to 4 with letters A, B, and C indicating tightness. Type 1 is straight. Type 2 is wavy. Type 3 is curly — from large springy S-shaped curls (3A) to dense corkscrew coils (3C). Type 4 is coily — from tightly coiled S or O patterns (4A) to the tightest coils with the most shrinkage (4C).

What is the difference between 3C and 4C hair?

3C hair features dense corkscrew coils with 30 to 50 percent shrinkage. 4C hair is the tightest coil pattern with the least definition, up to 70 to 75 percent shrinkage, and the most fragile strand structure due to extreme follicle ellipticity.

Why is ethnic hair different from straight hair?

The difference starts at the follicle. A round follicle produces straight hair. An oval or elliptical follicle produces curly or coily hair. The more flattened the oval, the tighter the curl. This is called ellipticity. Ethnic hair is also more porous and fragile due to stress points along the elliptical fiber.

What is shrinkage in hair?

Shrinkage is how much shorter curly or coily hair appears when dry versus wet. Type 3C shrinks 30 to 50 percent. Type 4C can shrink up to 70 to 75 percent. A skilled barber accounts for shrinkage when cutting — one who does not will consistently cut shorter than intended.

What curl type do I have?

Look at your hair washed, no product, air dried. Flat with no curl is Type 1. Loose S-shapes are Type 2. Defined spirals away from the scalp are Type 3. Tight coils or Z-shaped bends are Type 4. Many people carry multiple patterns on one head.

What should I tell my barber about my ethnic hair?

Tell them your curl type or show a photo of your natural pattern. Mention any chemical treatments. Tell them how you style it daily. A barber who understands ethnic hair will ask these questions before starting.

Is there a barber in Pleasant Grove Utah who cuts ethnic hair?

Yes. Line & Blade Barbershop in Pleasant Grove, Utah has Nick Liconas, a Black barber experienced with Type 3 and Type 4 ethnic hair. Located at 342 South 2000 West, Pleasant Grove, UT 84062. Book at vagaro.com/lineandblade.

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